That which was the Rajah Sulayman Lumba Ranao Grand Mosque

Everyone who has visited or lived around Manila likely knows where the Rajah Sulayman Lumba Ranao Grand Mosque used to be, although few are likely to know that is what it was actually called. The dilapidated yet still somehow eye-catching structure sat west of Roxas Boulevard, surrounded by a small colony of Moro squatters in the no-man’s-land between Baclaran and the newer bayside developments.

It caught the attention of passers-by because it sat isolated in a large tract of otherwise empty land; it had also caught the attention of the government, because that land was prime development property under the control of Philippine Reclamation Authority.

Early in 2009 a plan was formulated by the PRA to relocate the mosque to a site in Parañaque to clear the land for development, culminating in a May 26 directive issued by Executive Secretary Eduardo Ermita to the PRA, DPWS, DOT, and the City of Pasay informing them of the President’s instruction to proceed with the plan. The details of the proposed development were unclear; reportedly, the property was to be used for what is being called the “Southwest Public Transport Intermodal Center”, although the Manila Bulletin also reported the assertion of Archbishop Oscar Cruz that a casino might be built in place of the mosque. Also unclear is the exact nature of the proposed relocation, although it was implied that it would involve dismantling of the mosque and reconstructing it on a new site further south along the Coastal Road.

 The plan – whatever it was, exactly – had naturally provoked furious resistance from the settlers around the mosque, who had organised themselves into the grandiose-sounding Samahan ng Nagkakaisang Nademolish in Roxas Boulevard to protest the move, promising “bloodshed” if the government persists in carrying it out.

Asia Human Rights Commission

On November 18th, 2009, a group of demolition team, composed of about 300 policemen from the Pasay City Police Office, their counterparts from the Police Regional Office of the National Capital Region (NCR) and the police's Regional Mobile Group (RMG) had gone to demolish the shanties of informal settlers built surrounding the Rajah Sulayman Lumba Ranao Grand Mosque in Roxas Boulevard. The local government's City Engineering Office (PCEO) and the Department of Public Works and Highways (DPWH) were also present.

The team, lead by Senior Superintendent Raul Petrasanta, chief of police of PCPO as the ground commander, were allegedly carrying with them a writ of execution that had already expired. The writ was issued on August 11, 2009 by the Regional Trial Court (RTC), Branch 274, in Paranaque City. The team had also did not comply with the rules on demolitions, for example, giving occupants subject of the impending demolition a notice to vacate. The occupants were caught unaware of the scheduled demotion on that day.

When the demolition team arrived, the occupants who were caught by surprise immediately formed a human barricade, most of whom were women, to prevent them from penetrating the contested property to demolish their shanties. The scene quickly became chaotic - children, women and elderly were running from one place to the other to seek safety. Some of them crawled to a grassy portion for cover while others scuffled with the advancing demolition team.

The policemen, armed with M16 rifles and pistols broke the human barricade by force by shoving and pushing with the metal truncheons they were holding. After breaking through the policemen and the demolition proceeded in dismantling the occupant's shanties. The demolition team also arrested a 13-year-old boy (name withheld) for carrying a slingshot the demolition team later claimed was used against them.

When the resisting occupants began throwing rocks at the policemen the latter responded with indiscriminate and disproportionately use of their weapons which resulted in the deaths of three persons, including a boy, and the wounding of several others. Those killed were Hakim Usman, 30 years old; Rajib Batalo, 7; and Yacub Macalnas, 37. Their dead bodies were buried immediately according to the Muslim's burial rites.

Leica User Forum Book 2010

For a good cause and I was fortunate enough to have 2 images to be chosen for inclusion... The book is available in hard back from Blurb (link below). A large and very impressive piece of work.

Leica User Forum Book 2010

In the Autumn of 2009 [it was] suggested that the talented photographers of the Leica User Forum should collaborate in the production of a photo book for charity. This is the result. The Leica User Forum Charity Book 2010 showcases the work of 101 photographers, in 143 photographs. The subjects – people, landscape, architecture, etc – may vary, but the common thread is the appreciation and use of Leica cameras and lenses.


Everyone who contributed to this book has worked to raise over £10,000 for [the] chosen charity, AICR. Now, by buying it, will help to advance that total still further. Thank you and enjoy.
Bill Palmer


"In many ways, this wonderful international volume mirrors the achievements of AICR which aims to fund the best scientific research, wherever that is in the world."
Norman Barrett, Chief Executive, AICR


"This photo book – the proceeds of which are being donated to the AICR (Association for International Cancer Research) – is an extremely successful illustration of the passion and dedication of a rather special Leica community. It leaves no doubt whatsoever that our customers are the best."
Herr Rudolf Spiller, Chief Executive, Leica Camera AG

Beijing Song Birds

Winter in Beijing is bitterly cold with temperatures between -10 to -20 degrees Celsius and coupled with extremely low humidity. At the other end, summer can bring the very opposite with high humidity and temperature. However, all year round many of the older locals can often be found sitting in parks with their "Song birds" in cages hanging from trees with they take time out to relax and chat with friends.

These shots are all from Chaoyang Gong Yuan (Chaoyang Park) in Beijing. The gentleman captured in both the shot immediately above and below happens to be the same guy. The interesting part is that the one above is in the middle of winter while the one below was the middle of summer.

This shot above is one of my favourites and has a slightly interesting story associated with it. Give the environment and the type of shot I was after it was necessary to ask to take the shot. Initially this guy was sitting on a park bench with his shirt off enjoying the sun and when I asked him (in Mandarin) if he minded, he made some gesture to his lack of upper clothing and appeared to suggest no; yet he was extremely jovial in his nature.

However, he suddenly begins to put his shirt on and I realise that he happily intends to pose for me. I was using my Leica M6, and as I raised the camera he took on the structured pose of military personnel - not what I wanted but I took the shot none the less. As I lowered the camera he roared into laughter so I went to shoot again but before I could frame he switched back to his military pose. I tried to feint the shot but he wasn't falling for that so I took a second stiff frame. Now, as I wound the film on I felt the film go tight at the end of the stroke - now I know I've hit the end of the roll and the last shot. Again as I lowered the camera he roared into laughter and with the lens at chest level and still pointed in his direction, I took the shot...

Chiaro Oscuro

Im often in Japan, sometimes for work but my primary driver these days is to spend time with my 10 year old daughter who lives with my Japanese ex-wife in Tokyo. On one specific trip a couple of years ago I caught up with famed Japanese photographer, Tommy Oshima at an exhibition he was having in Shinjuku. Great to meet him and have a chat over a few beers.

 Tommy Oshima (with Kohiyama Takahiro in the background)

The exhibition was held in an extremely small three story bar called Nagune, which even when I had a map and directions took me forever to find, including asking many people if they had any idea where it was. Once I did find it, I couldn't believe how small it was. If people were sitting at the bar, they all had to make concessions so you could pass them, and on the 2nd and 3rd floors I needed to stoop in order to avoid hitting my head.

Also there was one of Tommy's regular photographic subjects and friend, Clarice sporting her Mamiya Press with out dated polaroid film. Needless to say, I eventually ended up being a target for this mammoth machine...

 ...photo courtesy of Clarice

Manila, a taste of real Asia

Asia is large both geographically and culturally. Most westerners who come to work in Asia usually end up based in Singapore or Honk Kong, some make Tokyo and more recently, Beijing and Shanghai have become expat bases.

All these cities, although different to western cities, are still large modern metropolises. Its only once you start getting opportunities to spend time in the developing Asian nations do you begin to see the real rawness of Asia. And as a further caveat - one which I have been initially guilty of myself - you also need to get beyond the night life of places like Manila, in the Philippines, and get to understand and experience the Filipino people first hand to even start to understand this region.

Fillipinos are an extremely jovial people. It has always struck me in my many visits over the course of more than a decade, that I  have never seen a race of people who always appear to enjoy life even when they really have nothing. The Filipino smile is certainly infectious and can be found everywhere.

I think the national icon of the Philippines must be the jeepney. The colourfully decorated, locally made crosses between a bus and a jeep that are everywhere - both privately owned and more visibly used for public transport along defined routes. You get on anywhere and you get off anywhere. I always recall a joke which never sounds great when I tell it but it basically goes "how many people can fit in a jeepney?" with the answer being "you can always fit one more!". From observation this is far more reality than humour. Jeepneys in Guadalupe...

Life is obviously tough for most Filipinos. Like anywhere in Asia there is the elite class but most people don't even come close to that category but they represent some great people. The Pasig River flow through Manila and life is busy right to its edge, in both good ways and bad ways. The shot below is from Guadalupe looking back across the Pasig to Poblacion with Makati City in the background. As an indication, Poblacion verges on being Filipino middle class.

Most trips I've had to Manila have been in Makati. A reasonably safe area but you always need to be aware of your surroundings. Initially, my exploration - once I was past the night life - was just walking distance from Makati, and I do walk a lot, which still offers a lot of interesting opportunities with a camera. This is on JP Rizal looking back towards Makati Avenue and Poblacion.

Poblacion is an interesting place. It has P. Burgos street, which is an infamous street of girlie bars and as such many of the girls reside in the immediate area. Most girls are from the provinces trying to make money to send back to families, who in many cases don't even try to work themselves when their daughters, sisters, nieces or cousins are regularly sending the easy money home. Some of the girls - below - still represent the genetic legacy of the US military with its presence at Clarke airbase.

Irrespective of hardships, kids always find fun. This shot is just off P. Burgos in Poblacion where the makeshift basketball was played on a reasonably quiet street corner. By the way, the "P" in P. Burgos stands for "Padre" - just a little ironic I've always thought.

There's always a smell to the air in Manila, not so much the incessant pollution, but rather a noticeably sweet smell that is unmistakably Manila. Open cooking is everywhere and the national dish of Adobo chicken, fish, pork or whatever flavours everything.

Back in the business district of Makati you can still find people selling their wares. Lately things have been changing with new shopping malls and redevelopment but life still goes on. I met this guy on Jupiter street just outside the McDonalds, he was selling hand made guitars. Not too sure of the quality as a few years later I bought a small one for an ornament, and that one was not something you could really play.

This shot also reminds me that, across Asia, Filipinos are the musicians of Asia. In almost every country from small pub through to the lavish casino complexes of Macao, Filipinos live and breath music. The Philippines is one of my top favourite countries to shoot in. I've been their many times and certainly have more to post going forward.

In rememberance...

Al Kaplan passed away on December 29th 2009. It would have been Al's 68th birthday today ...he is sorely missed. Al was a local character and professional photographer based in Miami. He actively participated on numerous photo message boards over the year and was comments were always interesting. Some insight into his life can be gleaned at his maintained blog The Price of Silver. I was fortunate enough while participating in a print swap to actually receive an original print from Al.

Singapore now and then...

Singapore, I find, does not lend itself to easy worthwhile shots. It takes some searching and peeling back the layers to find them, and that takes time. Initially its the differences from past experiences that you focus on - those that stimulate the senses. Cultural subtleties just don't come into play until you become a little desensitised, which really applies anywhere and can drive that need to return that 2nd or 3rd time

Tourist shot  - Merlion looking back towards the "Theatres on the Bay"

After less than 24hrs in Singapore

In late 1998 I ended up with an opportunity to move from Australia to Singapore. An opportunity I grabbed at. However, having arrived in Singapore with 2 large suitcases, within 24 hours I had left one in my boss' office and was on my way to Taipei, capital of Taiwan for a business trip - a business trip that lasted just over a year living out of a hotel. Welcome to Asia...

Well, living in the city and armed with my brand new Nikon F50 and (slow) kit Tamron 28-200mm lens, I began the journey of street/documentary style of shooting. My biggest regret now is that I didn't put any value in the negatives, just the prints, and now I have little of either from that period of my life.

Above is a shot from outside the front of Lungshan Temple on Kuangchou Street. Manka, now known as the Wanhua district, is the first part of Taipei to be developed. It is also the site of the city's oldest temple, Lungshan Temple, which serves as a center of social activity as well as worship for local residents.

An interesting legend relates the temple's origin. It is said that a man once left a Kuanyin (Goddess of Mercy) amulet hanging on a tree, and when night fell the amulet began giving off a brilliant light. The people of the neighborhood soon discovered that the charm had the power to grant wishes, and they naturally wanted to build a temple for the goddess. Construction on the site where the charm was found began in 1738, and the temple was completed two years later. Numerous renovations have taken place during the more than 250 years since then. The temple is laid out in the shape of a square within a square.

The unevenly cut stones that pave the temple's courtyard have their own history. In the old days, the Taiwan Straits were known as the "Blackwater Channel" because of their rough and perilous nature. To help stabilise their ships, immigrants from Fukien province used slabs of stone as ballast; it is these same stone slabs that now pave parts of the courtyard in front of Lungshan Temple.

September 21st 1999 Taiwan suffered a massive 7.6 earthquake, which while on the 17th floor of my hotel was a little terrifying. This was the second most deadly quake recorded in Taiwan; the first was in 1935. For some reason the momentum of my work activity seemed to decline after that event and it wasn't long before I was returning to Singapore.