Thursday, November 11, 2010

Manila, a taste of real Asia

Asia is large both geographically and culturally. Most westerners who come to work in Asia usually end up based in Singapore or Honk Kong, some make Tokyo and more recently, Beijing and Shanghai have become expat bases.

All these cities, although different to western cities, are still large modern metropolises. Its only once you start getting opportunities to spend time in the developing Asian nations do you begin to see the real rawness of Asia. And as a further caveat - one which I have been initially guilty of myself - you also need to get beyond the night life of places like Manila, in the Philippines, and get to understand and experience the Filipino people first hand to even start to understand this region.


Fillipinos are an extremely jovial people. It has always struck me in my many visits over the course of more than a decade, that I  have never seen a race of people who always appear to enjoy life even when they really have nothing. The Filipino smile is certainly infectious and can be found everywhere.

I think the national icon of the Philippines must be the jeepney. The colourfully decorated, locally made crosses between a bus and a jeep that are everywhere - both privately owned and more visibly used for public transport along defined routes. You get on anywhere and you get off anywhere. I always recall a joke which never sounds great when I tell it but it basically goes "how many people can fit in a jeepney?" with the answer being "you can always fit one more!". From observation this is far more reality than humour. Jeepneys in Guadalupe...


Life is obviously tough for most Filipinos. Like anywhere in Asia there is the elite class but most people don't even come close to that category but they represent some great people. The Pasig River flow through Manila and life is busy right to its edge, in both good ways and bad ways. The shot below is from Guadalupe looking back across the Pasig to Poblacion with Makati City in the background. As an indication, Poblacion verges on being Filipino middle class.




Most trips I've had to Manila have been in Makati. A reasonably safe area but you always need to be aware of your surroundings. Initially, my exploration - once I was past the night life - was just walking distance from Makati, and I do walk a lot, which still offers a lot of interesting opportunities with a camera. This is on JP Rizal looking back towards Makati Avenue and Poblacion.




Poblacion is an interesting place. It has P. Burgos street, which is an infamous street of girlie bars and as such many of the girls reside in the immediate area. Most girls are from the provinces trying to make money to send back to families, who in many cases don't even try to work themselves when their daughters, sisters, nieces or cousins are regularly sending the easy money home. Some of the girls - below - still represent the genetic legacy of the US military with its presence at Clarke airbase.


Irrespective of hardships, kids always find fun. This shot is just off P. Burgos in Poblacion where the makeshift basketball was played on a reasonably quiet street corner. By the way, the "P" in P. Burgos stands for "Padre" - just a little ironic I've always thought.



There's always a smell to the air in Manila, not so much the incessant pollution, but rather a noticeably sweet smell that is unmistakably Manila. Open cooking is everywhere and the national dish of Adobo chicken, fish, pork or whatever flavours everything.

Back in the business district of Makati you can still find people selling their wares. Lately things have been changing with new shopping malls and redevelopment but life still goes on. I met this guy on Jupiter street just outside the McDonalds, he was selling hand made guitars. Not too sure of the quality as a few years later I bought a small one for an ornament, and that one was not something you could really play.


This shot also reminds me that, across Asia, Filipinos are the musicians of Asia. In almost every country from small pub through to the lavish casino complexes of Macao, Filipinos live and breath music. The Philippines is one of my top favourite countries to shoot in. I've been their many times and certainly have more to post going forward.

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